The Most Common Boat Engine Problems You Will Face
You have probably seen the bumper sticker: "A bad day boating is better than an excellent day at work." Would you feel the same way if you were 10 miles away from the ramp with a boatload full of cranky passengers, and an engine that wouldn't start? Or your outboard motor isn't running at its full potential. You need a plan.
You might start by searching for reasons why a boat's engine loses power. If you are lucky, you might find a list that explains why your engine won’t start. The solution will likely be the easiest. It's not always easy and not all boaters are handy. Your only option is to get help from professionals or fellow boaters.
You're here if you have some experience with troubleshooting problems with engines. You don't have to be a professional mechanic in order to solve these problems. These are the ten most common problems that occur with engine failures.
Gasoline running out
The engine of the boat is sputtering, losing power.
The engine won't turn on or start.
The engine of the boat is too hot.
The boat motor suddenly stopped.
The engine vibrates
The engine won't go into gear.
Trimming is stuck to the engine.
Inadequacy of preventative maintenance
Broken drive belt
1. Running out of gas
Lack of gas is the number one reason boaters are stuck on the water. We know you are far too smart to run low on gas. However, it is still a good idea to check that your boat's fuel gauge works correctly or to plan accordingly if it doesn't. Knowing a little bit about your boat's fuel consumption and operating range can help you avoid making embarrassing calls for help. Fill up your tank before you go out and ensure that your fuel gauge is accurate.
Prevention You should always follow the Rule of Thirds. Plan to use one third of your fuel supply to go to work, one third to return home, and one-third for emergencies such as bad weather, fog, storms, or other unplanned circumstances that may keep you from getting out the next day.
2. Boat Engine Is Sputtering and Losing Energy
You feel like your boat is losing strength. Running out of fuel is the number one reason for boat breakdowns. Most likely, your problem is with the filter or plugs. This could explain why your boat's motor is not turning on.
Fix: Replace your in-line fuel filter. Did you bring a spare? You can clean and drain the accumulated water and debris from the filter element if you don't have one. After cleaning the filter element, owners of inboard/outboard (I/O), should make sure to thoroughly vent the engine box before starting again. If you don't, a clogged filter can seem minor.
Prevention Although it is possible to purchase a poor load of fuel, it's much more likely that it was stored in your boat. Long-term storage of fuel in a tank that isn't full can lead to condensation and water buildup. You should fill the tank for long-term storage. For periods exceeding three months, you may want to use a fuel stabiliser. You should also ensure that the boat is run long enough to inject the treated gas. Older tanks may have debris at their bottoms, which can cause fuel levels to drop and stir up. Increased filtration might be the best option. You might consider adding a larger aftermarket fuel filtration. Don't forget to add spare parts. It might be the spark plugs if it's not the gas. Although this is more common on older outboards, it might still be worth checking on any engine. You should always have spare parts and the tools necessary to replace them.
Have onboard: A spare filter or filter element, and a filter wrench.
3. Engine won't start
Everybody who has ever tried to turn an ignition key knows how frustrating it can be. This is likely to be an electrical problem. It could be a dead battery, a short circuit in the ignition circuit, or something else.
Solution Check the kill button. Check that the shifter is in neutral. Pay attention to the starter switch. Sometimes the dash-mounted ignition button can become loose and the whole switch mechanism will turn with the key. This can be fixed by simply getting behind the dash to tighten the retaining nuts or mounting screws. It could be low battery or a loose connection.
Prevention: It's possible to inspect, clean and replace the wiring as necessary. Consider installing a secondary battery bank, or one of the metering devices, if your crew is known to drain the battery by turning the music while at anchor. This will allow you to monitor the supply and reserve enough for a restart.
Keep Onboard: Screwdrivers and Allen wrenches with insulated handles. It is also a good idea to keep a battery charger on hand.
4. Boat Engine Is Overheating
The temperature gauge's needle is showing rising. This is almost always a sign that there is not enough water flow in your cooling loop. Outboards, small inboards and I/Os do not have radiators like cars. They use the water that is floating on the engine to cool it. The engine can heat up if the water stops flowing. Find the source. Most cases are caused by an obstruction in the water supply, such as weeds, mud or a plastic bag. Clean out the intake. Water flow can be slowed by a loose or burst clamp, as well as the possibility of damaging moisture spraying around the engine.
Prevention: Service and replacement of the impeller are essential. You should also inspect the housing. Even the best impeller can lose its pumping power if it is damaged or pitted. Your mechanic should inspect the exhaust system for any corrosion or blockages. Make sure to inspect the exhaust risers and any other components. Closed-loop cooling systems, which are radiators cooled by water, can have additional problems such as internal clogging. Regular maintenance is essential, in addition to ensuring that the coolant reservoir remains full.
Carry onboard: Softwire or rod to snake intake blockages.
5. Boat motor stopped suddenly
You might be lucky enough to get the kill switch pushed. You could run out of fuel. If none of these tests are positive, it could be an electrical problem. This could indicate a blown fuse, tripped breaker or loose connection.
Solution Start with simple situations. Check that the lanyard key is not loose on boats equipped with a kill switch or lanyard. It might appear to be engaged but not fully engaged at times, but it is still able to activate the switch. It is possible for ignition switches to fail or have loose connections. This will usually show up when the engine starts, but it's worth playing around with the switch and checking the fuse or breaker before you move on to the engine. Corrosion is the most common problem at the business end. This is where the large wires live. Boaters may forget to clean the wires from time to time, even if they are meticulously maintaining the terminals. You might need to call channel 16 or pull out your cell phone if it turns out that the problem is more complicated, such as the ignition chip of an EFI engine.
Prevention: Inspect and clean each connection periodically with anti-corrosion products.
Keep Onboard: Use a wire brush to clean the terminals.
6. Propeller Vibration
The vibrations are worse the faster you go. The engine might be racing and the boat losing speed.
Problem: The prop is likely to be damaged. A sharp edge or nick can cause vibration and imbalance. A fishing line or towrope can also snag the shaft. Direct hits on any object can damage or remove enough metal to render the prop useless. Sometimes, a prop that appears to be in good condition may have enough damage or distortion to cause vibration and cavitation. You should slow down and focus on getting to shore, unless you have a spare prop. This is not always possible. You might need to trim the motor to remove any monofilament or line that has made its way into the prop hub. Mono can be tolerated by most outboards and I/Os. However, if it causes a significant decrease in performance you should not ignore it as it could cause permanent damage. The rubber bushing in the hub of outboards can slip and fail, leading to a loss or power. You might have to stop and rest at home.
Prevention: Carry a spare prop and the tools you need to swap. You can practice changing props so that you don't get any surprises if you need to do it outside of your home.
Keep onboard: Gloves to protect your hand from blades and a specific prop wrench.
7. Engine Won't Shift into Gear
Pull away from the dock, and then push the shifter. The boat is never at idle speed. The transmission is not engaged by the shifter.
Solution If you have elink electronic controls, it might be a fuse. It's likely a stuck or broken cable linkage, as 90 percent of small boats still use manual cable shifts. To ensure that the cable is not detached from the transmission housing's shift lever, start at the gearbox. Internal corrosion can cause the cable to stick. If this happens, you can try wiggling it loose. It's possible that the problem is on the transmission side of your linkage, rather than on the cable side. There is probably nothing you can do on the water. An engine mechanic is required to diagnose major boat transmission problems.
Prevention: Lack of fluid or gear oil is the leading cause of transmission failure. Make sure to keep your levels up and change them as needed. Maintain the cables and the hardware, and service them regularly.
Keep Onboard: Additional transmission fluid, wire, tie wraps and J-B weld are available for quick repair.
8.Your Engine Trim is stuck!
Now you're back on the ramp, but the outdrive/outboard won’t lift so you can load the boat onto its trailer and get it ready for the highway.
The solution is If it's not a bad fuse it could be a mechanical/hydraulic issue. It is simple to reach out and lift it manually. You will need to locate the trim release valve. It is located near the base or outdrive/outboard. This valve releases pressure from the hydraulic loop and allows the driver to tilt.
Prevention Keep the fluid level at a safe level and check it periodically for any water infiltration.
Keep Onboard: Use large slotted and Philips-head screwdrivers to release the valve.
9. Inadequacy in Engine Maintenance
A boat's appearance does not necessarily mean that it is well-maintained. Dealers tell us time and again of boat owners who meticulously cleaned and polished their boats, but didn't pay much attention to its internal workings. Although maintenance isn't something most people enjoy, it can be done with a bit of planning.
Solution We recommend that you create a checklist with your NMMA-certified dealer in order to keep track of the tasks and when they should be done. This list will help you reduce your chances of being stranded.
10. Broken Drive Belt
While you won't hear the drive belt break over general engine noises, you'll know it's something is wrong when your voltage meter or overheat warning light come on. A broken belt can cause you to lose control of your vehicle. You won't have a water pump or alternator if the belt isn't intact.
Solution You can jury-rigged a temporary belt using a fishing line, pantyhose, or other methods. Although this might work, wouldn't it be much easier to have a spare and the tools to repair it?
Preventive: Check, tighten, and dress your belt. Also, check the contact surfaces of the pulleys. Sometimes corrosion can leave rough spots on the pulleys, which will quickly eat a brand new belt. The Boat Tool Kit, which includes all the necessary repairs and everything you need.
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